Esmoriz is a resort in waiting, for now, a draw for locals and visiting surfers Esmoriz has the potential to be much more. Esmoriz is a traditional fishing village as demonstrated by the colourful fishing boats left on the beaches and the traditional "Palheiro" wooden fisherman huts. The town has over recent years made a name for itself amongst the surfing community due to the area's reliable beach break which draws wave riders of all abilities. Several surf camps and schools have opened up to accommodate those who want to work on their skills.

In addition to investments in the infrastructure of the town, there has been substantial regeneration of the lagoon and the rare coastal environment north of Esmoriz. The area is now protected and a sanctuary for wildlife and birds. Also, a new park was established which contains 20 hectares of lakes, grassland and maritime pine forest.

Praia da Esmoriz

Also known as the Praia da Esmoriz this beach is linked to the Barrinha de Esmoriz lagoon and National Reserve at the northern end. The expanse of sands here at this stretch of the beach is the widest of the resort with fewer bars, cafés and apartments. Instead, it's where new dunes and coastal habitats are being regenerated. The beach is somewhat exposed to Atlantic winds and the waters here are best suited to surfers who take advantage of the consistent beach breaks here. Waves reach a height of between one and three metres with no hidden rocks and easy access to the beach.

The central and southern side of the long beach is dominated by sea and old homes, remnants of the old fishing village and the traditional wooden fisherman's houses known as Palheiros. Many of these have been restored and turned into holiday accommodation. This end of the stretch of beach is more suitable for families and sunbathers alike. There's certainly no shortage of eateries and facilities here.

The lagoon system north of Esmoriz known as Barrinha de Esmoriz or Lagoa de Paramos has enjoyed extensive regeneration, with the help of EU funds, over the last few years. Dunes and watercourses have been dredged, trees planted, reverting the land to wetlands suitable for rare breeds of birds and fauna. There are now over 395 hectares of protected habitat between Esmoriz and Espinho. In 2017 walkways were built that traverse the delicate landscape and form part of the Ecovia do Litoral network of coastal paths which extend north to the Spanish border. The wooden pathways open this unique environment to walkers and provide viewpoints for waterfowl such as herons, sandpipers, swallowtails and gull-billed terns.

Located in the village of Cortegaça 1.5km South of Esmoriz is this extraordinary church famed for its striking façade. The current church on this spot was built between 1910 and 1918. There's been a religious building on this site since the 1100s. The main façade is flanked on each side by pyramid-topped bell towers, which themselves house a clock-face in each. In-between the central panel is capped by a triangular pinnacle which supports three statues – Santa Marinha, to whom the temple is dedicated, is in the centre, with São Miguel on the right and São Martinho on the left. The whole front elevation was covered with decorative azulejo tiles in the 1920s which employ Trompe L’oeil techniques to depict alcoves that house the saints S. Pedro and S. Paulo, S. João Bosco and S. Francisco de Assis. Two painted rose windows sit above the alcoves with a depiction of the Holy Chalice in the centre. The whole frontage is highly decretive with the use of floral motifs, cherubs and heraldry. It is one of the finest examples of azulejo art in Portugal. The only reason to go inside however is to marvel at the painted ceiling over the chancel which represents the Four Evangelists. Along with the adjacent cemetery, the church is a National Monument.
Rua do Padre Manuel Pereira, Cortegaça, Portugal. | 40° 56' 34.9" N | 08° 37' 29.1" W

Ten kilometres south of Esmoriz is the municipal town of Ovar which itself doesn't have much to offer tourists yet does make an inexpensive jumping-off point to discover the regions beauty spots and excellent beaches. Both Porto and Aveiro are within easy reach by road and rail. The small family-friendly coastal resort of Furadouro is a short 10-minute drive away and easily reachable by a network of cycle paths. Ovar also lies at the northern edge of the Aveiro Ria (tidal lagoon) a precious nature reserve and somewhere to enjoy water sports.

Ovar itself is renowned for its Azulejo tiles which adorn the façades of much of the town's churches, chapels and houses. By the end of the 19th century, tile production became industrialised increasing their use by the masses. These pattern tiles, mostly with flowery motifs, were produced close by in Aveiro.

Igreja Matriz de São Cristóvão

Within the town is a magnificent 17th-century church whose exterior walls are completely covered in 20th-century Azulejo tiles. A niche above the main portal houses a limestone carving of Saint Christopher the church's patron. It's believed this statue dates as far back as the 1400s. The façade is topped by a baroque style pediment. The interior is composed of three barrel-vaulted naves divided by Tuscan columns. Two side chapels house 17th-century altarpieces. A rococo wooden ceiling looks down upon a gilt-wood altar.

5km west of Ovar is the small resort of Furadouro with a vast expansion of white sand. On the north and southern extremities of the beach, boardwalks traverse a wide area of dunes containing rare fauna. Somewhat unspoiled from mass tourism yet still popular with locals, there are plenty of eateries and watering holes for everyone's refreshment. Water quality here has Blue Flag status and conditions are ideal for bathing. Facilities at the centre are numerous, with good parking and disabled access. Further away from the centre is quieter and it's here where surfers head for. There's a handful of surf hire shops and schools for those who wish to ride the waves.

Whereas the façades of the churches and public buildings in Ovar are covered in mass-produced tiles of repeated patterns in the village of Válega, six kilometres east, is one of Portugal's finest examples of ceramic art. The multicoloured tiles which coat the church inside and out are individually painted depicting biblical scenes. The current church dates from the mid-18th century and is the last of a line of religious buildings on this spot. The tiles however were crafted in the 20th century and are equally as ornate on the interior. Inside too there's an impressive wood-panelled ceiling installed during conservation work carried out between 1923 and 1958. The spectacular stained glass windows were created in Madrid. The best time to visit is at sunset as the church faces west and the tiles reflect the golden rays of the evening sun.

Rua da Igreja Matriz 115, 3880-506 Válega, Portugal. | 40° 50′ 01″ N | 08° 34′ 49″ W